TMB Stage 5: From Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti

From the terrace of the Refuge Bonatti, the Grandes Jorasses own the horizon. Not as some distant backdrop fading into haze, but right there in front of you, the 1,200-metre north face holding your gaze while you nurse your morning coffee. It is one of the most powerful views on the whole Tour du Mont-Blanc, and it is what greets you at the finish of this fifth stage.

I have a real soft spot for this stretch. It was here, during a tour through the Val d'Aoste, that I first set eyes on Mont Blanc and the Grandes Jorasses. Courmayeur sits at 1,224 metres. The Refuge Bonatti sits at 2,026 metres. Over 12.5 kilometres, the trail climbs steadily with scarcely any descent, gaining altitude through the Italian Val Ferret, a pastoral valley ruled by the spires and glaciers on the massif's southern flank. This is a quiet, uphill stage, well removed from the crowds of Chamonix, where the TMB recovers something wilder and more intimate.

Two options lie ahead: the classic route via the Refuge Bertone and the hamlet of Armina, through forest and along a balcony path, or the variant along the Mont de la Saxe ridge to the Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m), more demanding and strikingly beautiful. This article covers both, along with terrain data, accommodation, and the story of the remarkable alpinist whose name adorns the refuge at the end of the day.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 11.2 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 944 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 176 m

Stage 5 at a Glance

A note on staging: in 7-day itineraries, the Courmayeur-to-Refuge Bonatti section is sometimes treated as a half-day that some guidebooks merge with the beginning of Stage 6 (Grand Col Ferret). In the classic 11-stage breakdown, it stands as a full stage, short but physically sustained on account of the continuous climb.

Leaving Courmayeur: The Climb Toward Villair

You leave Courmayeur heading for the hamlets of Villair-Dessous and Villair-Dessus, perched on the right flank of the valley. The Valdostan architecture is immediately evident: grey stone houses, stone-slab roofs, narrow windows. The steep lanes quickly give way to a forest trail climbing toward the Refuge Bertone.

Larch forest sets the tone for this first portion of the stage. The trail gains altitude in steady switchbacks, never getting truly steep. It is a gentle warm-up at a comfortable rhythm, letting you digest Courmayeur and wake the legs up for what follows.

Refuge Giorgio Bertone (1,989 m): The First Viewpoint

After roughly 2h30 to 3 hours of climbing, the Refuge Bertone opens onto a panorama that brings conversation to a halt. An orientation table on the terrace faces the Mont Blanc massif, and it can barely keep up with everything in view: the Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m), the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, Mont Blanc de Courmayeur (4,748 m), the pillars of the south face. This is the first real overlook on the Italian side after the long descent through Val Veni.

The refuge serves drinks and snacks, making it a handy refuelling stop before continuing. It is also the fork in the trail: the classic route carries on along the balcony toward Refuge Bonatti via Armina, while the Mont de la Saxe variant climbs to the ridge above.

The Classic Route via Armina

From Bertone, the standard route follows the eastern flank of the Val Ferret along a balcony path, through high pastures and scattered woodland. You pass the alpages of Sécheron (1,924 m) before reaching the Refuge Bonatti. The terrain is varied, the elevation gain moderate, and the views down the valley never let up. It is a thoroughly enjoyable segment with no technical difficulty, best taken at a contemplative pace.

Refuge Walter Bonatti (2,026 m)

The Refuge Bonatti is not just another mountain hut. Its position, on a balcony above the Val Ferret, facing the north wall of the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du Géant (4,013 m), makes it one of the most spectacular spots on the entire circuit. The north-facing terrace gives a direct view of the Pointe Walker, the Pointe Whymper, and the Pointe Croz, the three principal summits of the Jorasses, less than 4 kilometres away as the crow flies.

The refuge was built in 1998 and bears the name of Walter Bonatti, an exceptional alpine guide born in Bergamo in 1930. The naming was no coincidence: the Val Ferret and the southern flanks of Mont Blanc are deeply intertwined with this man's life.

Walter Bonatti (1930-2011): A Life Above the Vertical

At 19, Walter Bonatti set his sights on the north faces of the Grandes Jorasses and the Piz Badile. In 1955, at 25, he completed a solo ascent of the south-west pillar of the Dru (3,730 m), a six-day solo route on vertical granite that placed his name firmly in the history of mountaineering.

In 1961, a tragedy unfolded just above the Val Veni that you crossed during Stage 4. Two roped teams became trapped by a storm on the central pillar of the Frêney: one Italian, led by Bonatti, the other French, led by Pierre Mazeaud. The storm raged for several days. Four climbers lost their lives (Andrea Oggioni, Pierre Kohlman, Robert Guillaume, and Antoine Vieille). Bonatti and the survivors crawled back to the Refuge Gamba. What he later wrote about those days in his memoirs stands as one of the most harrowing accounts in all of alpine literature.

In 1965, he signed off with one final masterwork: the first winter solo ascent of the north face of the Matterhorn. He then stepped away from extreme alpinism, turning to photojournalism and exploration across five continents. He died in 2011, at 81. The refuge bearing his name above the Val Ferret is a fitting tribute.

The Gervasutti Bivouac: The Most Improbable Shelter in the Massif

For the curious hiker, the Gervasutti Bivouac is worth knowing about. This metal capsule with 12 bunks, installed in 2011 at 2,835 metres on a rocky islet amid the Frébouze Glacier, at the foot of the east face of the Grandes Jorasses, looks for all the world like a spacecraft set down on the mountain. It is named after Giusto Gervasutti, a climber of the 1930s and 1940s, who in August 1942, with Giuseppe Gagliardone, made the first ascent of the east face of the Grandes Jorasses, a 750-metre route graded Extremely Difficult. In 1946, while trying to free a rappel rope on Mont Blanc du Tacul, on the pillar that now bears his name, he fell and perished. The bivouac sits outside the classic TMB route, but its metallic form is visible from certain points in the valley.

Variant: The Mont de la Saxe Ridge to the Tête de la Tronche (2,584 m)

The Mont de la Saxe variant leaves the main trail above the Refuge Bertone and climbs onto the ridge overlooking the Val Ferret, topping out at 2,584 metres. The panorama that opens up there is one of the great moments of the Italian side: from Mont Blanc de Courmayeur to the Grandes Jorasses, past the Dent du Géant and the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey, the chain sweeps across 180 degrees without a break. It is the hillwalker's dream option: demanding, but beautiful enough to leave you lost for words.

The variant adds roughly 600 metres of additional elevation gain and about 2 hours of hiking. It is advisable under three conditions: fair weather with clear visibility, fresh legs at the start from Courmayeur, and no snow on the ridge (before mid-July, check conditions). In mist or poor weather, stay with the classic forest route.

This is the variant we systematically choose with our groups when conditions allow. The view of the Grandes Jorasses from the ridge, at that distance and altitude, has a clarity that photographs only partly do justice to.

A secondary viewpoint along this variant deserves a mention: the Tête d'Entre-Deux-Sauts (2,729 m), reached by a faint side path, offers a plunging view into the glacial basin of Frébouze and the walls of the Jorasses in all their verticality.

Accommodation at the Finish

The Refuge Walter Bonatti (2,026 m) is the standout accommodation for this stage. Staffed from mid-June to mid-September, it offers dormitories and a handful of private rooms with dinner and breakfast included. The atmosphere is classic Italian mountain refuge: well-prepared food, communal dining, and a terrace that will stay with you.

Booking is essential in July and August. The refuge fills up fast. Reserve through rifugiobonatti.it at least a fortnight ahead during peak season, and further out for weekends.

The Refuge Giorgio Bertone (1,989 m) is an alternative for those who prefer to break the stage in two. You sleep at the halfway point and reach the Bonatti the following morning. Less dramatic as a destination, but more restful if the legs are feeling heavy.

Practical Tips

Water and Supplies

Water is available at the start (Courmayeur), at the Refuge Bertone, and at the finish. Between Bertone and Bonatti, water sources dry up in peak season. Fill a litre at Bertone before moving on. For meals, leave Courmayeur with a solid breakfast inside you and plan dinner at the Refuge Bonatti.

Weather

The upper section of the stage, above 1,800 metres, is exposed to afternoon thunderstorms. Getting an early start from Courmayeur (before 8 AM in peak season) lets you reach the refuge by early afternoon, ahead of any cloud build-up over the massif.

Poles and Footwear

The classic route presents no technical difficulty. The Mont de la Saxe variant may have lingering snow patches before mid-July and some rocky sections along the ridge. Trekking poles and boots with good grip are advisable in that case.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 5

How long does it take to get from Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti?

Allow 5 to 6 hours of hiking for the classic route (via Bertone and Armina). With the Mont de la Saxe variant, plan on 7 to 8 hours. The stage is predominantly uphill, so it is your lungs doing most of the work rather than your knees.

Is the Mont de la Saxe variant difficult?

It is longer and higher than the classic route but involves no technical ground under normal summer conditions. The main challenge is the additional elevation gain (+600 m) and the length of the exposed ridge. Before mid-July, snow patches can complicate the passage. A good fitness level is all you need, with no specialist equipment required.

Can you stay at Refuge Bonatti without a booking?

Outside July and August, it is sometimes possible to arrive without a reservation, but you are taking a chance. The refuge is regularly full in peak season, especially on Fridays and Saturdays. Booking online through the official website is strongly recommended.

When does Refuge Bonatti open and close?

The refuge is generally open from mid-June to mid-September, depending on snow conditions. It may open later after a heavy snow year. Check rifugiobonatti.it before your trip for the exact dates of the current season.

What Comes Next on the TMB

The Refuge Bonatti is the gateway to the Swiss section of the circuit. Stage 6 climbs to the Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m), the highest point on the classic TMB, and drops into Switzerland toward La Fouly and the Swiss Val Ferret.

To place this stage in the broader picture, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc article details all 11 stages, variants, best periods, and full logistics. If you would like to experience the TMB in comfort with hand-picked accommodation and a dedicated mountain guide, our TMB in 7 days with Altimood packs the best of the circuit into a single week.

You have just come from Stage 4, from Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur: the night in the Valdostan resort town is behind you. Ahead lies Switzerland and its cheeses.

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