TMB Stage 3: From France to Italy via the Col de la Seigne

In the morning, you walk through the alpine pastures of Beaufortain, past Tarine cows and sleeping patous. Five hours later, at the Col de la Seigne (2,516 m), the ground changes underfoot — grass gives way to rock, and the south face of Mont Blanc surges into view, dark, vertical, almost threatening. You have just crossed into Italy.

This shift is what makes the third stage of the Tour du Mont-Blanc a moment apart on the circuit. Shorter than the gruelling day over the Col du Bonhomme, it surprises with the sheer intensity of contrast: on one side the French pastures, on the other the Val Veni — the flank that the writer Samivel once compared to a Wagner opera. We — the mountain guides Altimood — watch hikers stop at the col every year, speechless, taking a moment to understand that the massif they thought they knew from Chamonix has an entirely different face when seen from Italy.

This article covers the route from Les Chapieux to the Rifugio Elisabetta with field data, accommodation advice, and what you need to know about the patous, the Casermetta and the phantom aircraft on the Aiguille des Glaciers.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 13.6 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 974 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 379 m

Stage 3 at a Glance

Note on stage divisions: some 10-day itineraries merge the end of Stage 2 with the beginning of Stage 3, starting from the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme directly towards the Col de la Seigne. The route described here starts from Les Chapieux — the most common breakdown across the classic 11-stage itinerary.

Les Chapieux (1,549 m): The Last French Hamlet

Les Chapieux is not a village — it is a passage. A handful of stone houses, a chapel, the Auberge de la Nova, and the road climbing towards the Vallée des Glaciers. The hamlet has served as a crossroads for centuries: the paths from Beaufortain, the Col de la Seigne and the Col du Bonhomme converged here long before the TMB existed as a hiking route.

On the morning of departure, the low light of Beaufortain illuminates the alpine pastures. The trail leaves the hamlet along the left bank of the Torrent des Glaciers, on a gentle incline. It is a pleasant warm-up after the demanding day before.

The Vallée des Glaciers: Climbing Towards the Refuge des Mottets

The path ascends the Vallée des Glaciers, a broad high-altitude valley flanked by the buttresses of the Aiguille des Glaciers (3,816 m) to the east and the Beaufortain ridges to the west. The name is no exaggeration: glacial tongues once extended much further down into this hollow. Today, alpine pastures have taken over, and herds of Tarine cattle are brought up each summer to produce Beaufort cheese.

Patous: Living with Livestock Guardian Dogs

The Vallée des Glaciers is an active summer pasture. The herds are guarded by patous — large white livestock guardian dogs whose job is to deter predators. Every summer, TMB hikers encounter one or more patous on the trail. The approach is straightforward: slow down, do not shout, avoid eye contact with the dog, do not pet it, and give the flock a wide berth if possible. If a patou comes towards you, stand still for a few seconds while it identifies you as harmless. Trekking poles raised above the head can be interpreted as a threat. Staying calm is enough in the vast majority of cases.

The Refuge des Mottets (1,870 m)

After roughly an hour of walking from Les Chapieux, the Refuge des Mottets appears on a flat stretch of the valley. It is the last supply point before the Col de la Seigne and the last refuge on the French side. The terrace offers an open view of the valley and surrounding ridges. Decent coffee and homemade tarts make it well worth the stop.

Beyond the refuge, the trail steepens. Alpine pastures gradually give way to short grass, then scree. The landscape turns mineral — the last trees vanished long ago — and the col can be made out between two rocky shoulders.

The Col de la Seigne (2,516 m)

The Col de la Seigne is the TMB's first border crossing. You leave France for Italy, Beaufortain for the Val d'Aoste. The word "Seigne" may derive from the Savoyard patois sagne, meaning marshland, or from the Latin signum — the sign, the boundary. Both etymologies fit: it is indeed a threshold, and the boggy areas around the col are a reminder that snowmelt lingers here for much of the year.

At the col, the change is abrupt. The grassy, rounded French side gives way to a high-mountain panorama: the far side of Mont Blanc unfolds with dark walls, hanging glaciers and the monolith of the Aiguille Noire de Peuterey (3,772 m) dominating the skyline. This is one of the TMB's defining moments — the point where you realise the Mont Blanc massif has two faces: the north side, visible from Chamonix, elegant and luminous; and this south side, wilder, steeper, almost Himalayan.

The Casermetta and the Ruins Below the Col

A few metres below the col on the Italian side, ruined walls are a reminder that this border was not always symbolic. These structures date from the Second World War, when the col served as a military border post. Further down, the Casermetta — a former Italian carabinieri barracks — has been converted into an exhibition space on the alpine environment. Entry is free, and the bilingual panels offer a welcome cultural break after the effort of the col.

An Aircraft in the Mountain

Looking towards the Aiguille des Glaciers from the col, nothing suggests that an American B-17 bomber lies somewhere in these walls. On 1 November 1946, the aircraft — loaded with munitions and en route from Naples to London — struck the Aiguille des Glaciers. Eight crew members perished. Among the debris recovered was a rag doll, probably entrusted by a little girl to her father before the flight. In 2011, the families' association installed two commemorative steles at the crash site. The wreckage is invisible from the trail, but it is part of this valley's memory.

The Descent to Lac Combal and the Rifugio Elisabetta

From the col, the trail descends past the Pyramides Calcaires (2,728 m), two rock formations that frame the path like natural pylons. The gradient is even and the track well marked. You enter the Allée Blanche, a vast glacial corridor linking the Col de la Seigne to Courmayeur.

Lac Combal occupies the bottom of this basin. It is no longer the large lake it once was: alluvial deposits from the Miage glacier have gradually filled it in, and all that remains is a shallow body of water surrounded by wetlands. The setting is still spectacular: the Miage glacier — Italy's longest (10 km) — flows just above, covered in rocky debris that gives it a lunar appearance.

The Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini (2,195 m) sits a few minutes above the lake. Perched on a promontory, it commands a view over the entire Allée Blanche. It is one of the best-situated refuges on the TMB, with a panorama stretching from the Col de la Seigne to the first slopes above Courmayeur.

Accommodation for Stage 3

At the Rifugio Elisabetta

• Rifugio Elisabetta Soldini (2,195 m, tel. +39 0165 84 40 80): 80 beds, half-board or bed only. The refuge is run by the Varese section of the Italian Alpine Club. Book several weeks ahead for July and August.

Along the Route

• Refuge des Mottets (1,870 m, tel. 04 79 07 01 70): a good stopping point for those leaving early from the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme who want to break the climb to the col.
• Refuge de la Ville des Glaciers (~1,780 m): an alternative between the Mottets and the col, in the upper part of the valley.

Bivouacking on Stage 3

Bivouacking is tolerated in Italy above 2,500 m, under certain conditions (tent pitched after 7 pm, taken down before 7 am). The shores of Lac Combal are tempting but exposed to wind. Check local regulations before pitching your tent.

Practical Tips for TMB Stage 3

Water on the Route

Water sources are regular as far as the Refuge des Mottets. Above, they become scarce. Carry 1.5 to 2 litres from Les Chapieux or refill at the Refuge des Mottets. Water is available at the Rifugio Elisabetta.

Weather and Conditions

The Col de la Seigne (2,516 m) is exposed to wind, often stronger on the Italian side. A windproof layer is essential even in fine weather. The col can be snow-covered early in the season (June) and after the first autumn storms. The best time to hike the TMB is between late June and mid-September. In fog, the waymarks remain visible, but caution is needed on the descent towards Italy.

Supplies

Les Chapieux has the Auberge de la Nova for dinner and breakfast, but there is no grocery shop or bakery. If you need provisions, the last full resupply point is Les Contamines-Montjoie. The Refuge des Mottets and the Rifugio Elisabetta sell energy bars and drinks.

Logistics and Access

Les Chapieux is isolated: there is no regular public transport. Seasonal shuttles sometimes run between Bourg-Saint-Maurice and Les Chapieux in summer, but schedules vary from year to year. In case of need (leaving the TMB, injury), arrange a taxi from Bourg-Saint-Maurice. On the Italian side, the Val Veni is accessible by car from Courmayeur.

Frequently Asked Questions — TMB Stage 3

How difficult is the Les Chapieux to Rifugio Elisabetta stage?

This is a moderately difficult stage (3/5), noticeably shorter than Stage 2. The 1,058 m of elevation gain is spread evenly along the ascent, with no technical sections. The descent on the Italian side is short (around 300 m to the refuge). It is often a relatively restful day after the demanding Col du Bonhomme stage.

Can I start from the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme instead of Les Chapieux?

Yes, and it is a logical option for those who spent the previous night at the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme (2,433 m). You then need to descend to Les Chapieux and climb back up, or take the direct trail through the Vallée des Glaciers. This approach adds roughly 1h30 to the day.

Is the Col de la Seigne dangerous?

No, the Col de la Seigne is not technically difficult. The trail is well marked and waymarked on both sides. The risks are weather-related: fog (reduced visibility), strong wind at the col, residual snow early in the season. In fine weather during summer, it is accessible to any reasonably fit hiker.

Do I need ID to cross into Italy?

Technically, a valid identity card or passport is required for EU nationals, even within the Schengen area. In practice, there are no checks at the Col de la Seigne. Having identification on you is still recommended for the entire TMB, particularly for check-in formalities at Italian and Swiss mountain huts.

Where can I sleep if the Rifugio Elisabetta is full?

The refuge sometimes fills up in high season. Alternatives include turning back to the Mottets (French side, before the col), continuing to the Rifugio Combal further down the Val Veni, or bivouacking legally above 2,500 m on the Italian side.

What's Next on the TMB

The Rifugio Elisabetta opens the door to the Val Veni — the flank that mountaineers call "the Himalayan side of Mont Blanc." The next stage descends towards Courmayeur along the Miage glacier and the south face of the massif, with the optional Skyway Monte Bianco cable car up to the Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m).

To see how this stage fits into the full circuit, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc guide details all 11 stages, the variants, the ideal seasons and full logistics. If you want to experience the TMB in comfort with hand-picked accommodation and a dedicated guide, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood packs the best of the circuit into one week.

If you are coming from Stage 2 from Les Contamines-Montjoie, your legs already know the rhythm of the TMB.

Further Reading