Stage 6 of the TMB: Rifugio Bonatti to La Fouly via Grand Col Ferret

The Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m) is the highest point on the classic Tour du Mont-Blanc. It is also a border, the second frontier crossing of the circuit: in one step, you leave Italy for Switzerland, swapping the towering granite needles for the rounded, gentle pastures of the Valais. That shift in scenery, all in the space of a few metres, is one of the truly memorable moments on the TMB.

This stage fits a whole day's adventure into one go: the steady climb from the Italian Val Ferret, the col crossing with its views of the Pré-de-Bar Glacier and the Grand Combin, then a long, rolling descent through Swiss alpine meadows to La Fouly. It is also the longest stage on the TMB by distance, which makes it tiring even though there is nothing technically difficult about it.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 19.1 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 789 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 1217 m

Stage 6 at a Glance

Note: this is the longest stage on the TMB by distance. The cumulative descent (close to 1,400 m) takes a real toll on the knees. Keep your trekking poles out, especially on the Swiss side going down.

The Descent to Arnuva: Leaving the Italian Balcony Behind

You set off from Refuge Bonatti at first light, the Grandes Jorasses still deep in shadow ahead. The path drops towards the floor of the Italian Val Ferret through the Malatra pastures (2,056 m), then reaches the farmstead at Arnuva (1,776 m) in about 1h30. It is an easy, even descent through meadows full of gentians and rhododendrons.

Along the way, the Pré-de-Bar Glacier appears on the eastern side of the valley. This glacier, which flows down from Mont Dolent (3,823 m), has retreated sharply in recent decades. Its snout, once on a level with the trail, has pulled well back above. It is a striking, visible-to-the-eye reminder of the glacial retreat happening right across the Alps.

Mont Dolent itself is worth knowing about: it is the summit where the borders of France, Italy, and Switzerland all converge. A geographic tripoint at 3,823 m, invisible from the path but symbolically there throughout this stage of transition between two countries.

Refuge Elena (2,062 m): Last Stop Before the Col

From Arnuva, the trail climbs to Refuge Elena (2,062 m), the last halt on Italian soil. Allow about an hour of steady ascent. The refuge serves drinks and supplies. It is the spot to top up water bottles and sort out your layers before the final push upward.

Above the refuge, the ground becomes increasingly rocky. Pastures give way to scree and steepening grassy slopes. The last 400 metres of elevation gain to the col are the most sustained climbing of the day. Early in the season (before mid-July), snowfields may linger on the upper slopes. Nothing technical, but boots with good grip make all the difference.

Grand Col Ferret (2,537 m): The Great Changeover

The col is broad, grassy, and windswept. You arrive after a little over an hour of climbing from Refuge Elena. The reward comes in two parts.

On the Italian side, behind you: the whole Val Ferret stretches out below, framed by the spires of the massif. You can spot the Pré-de-Bar Glacier, Refuge Bonatti sitting in its meadow, and further back the Col de la Seigne where you entered Italy two days before. The entire Italian chapter of the TMB is gathered in that backward view.

On the Swiss side, ahead: the landscape transforms. The lines grow softer, the colours turn greener, the slopes become rounded. The Grand Combin (4,314 m), the giant of the Valais, commands the north-eastern skyline. You move from Italian alpine drama to Swiss calm. It is a transition that words struggle to do justice, and every walker takes it in differently.

The col is also the highest point on the classic TMB (the Col des Fours and Fenêtre d'Arpette variants go higher, but those are not part of the standard route).

The Swiss Descent: Pastures, Raccards and the Swiss Val Ferret

The descent on the Swiss side is long (about 3 hours to La Fouly) but never dull. The trail first crosses the La Peule alp (2,090 m), where a mountain chalet sometimes serves drinks and local cheese in season.

As you head down towards the village of Ferret (1,700 m), you enter a landscape quite different from anything you have passed through since the start of the TMB. The raccards appear along the trail: small granaries of darkened wood, raised on stilts with flat stone slabs capping each pillar, designed to store grain and seeds safe from rodents. This is classic Valaisan architecture, found right across the canton from the French-speaking Entremont valleys to the German-speaking Upper Valais. Practical and handsome, they line the Swiss Val Ferret with their distinctive dark shapes.

Arriving at La Fouly (1,593 m)

La Fouly is a small mountain village, a cross-country ski station in winter and a TMB stop in summer. After 20 kilometres of walking, arriving in this peaceful hamlet is a genuine relief. You will find a shop, restaurants, accommodation, and a bus stop (La Fouly-Orsières line, 7 departures daily) for anyone wanting to shorten or reshuffle their route.

The feel here is miles from Courmayeur: no fancy shops, no crowded terraces. La Fouly goes along at mountain pace, quiet and unassuming.

Accommodation at the Finish

The Auberge des Glaciers is the main place to stay in La Fouly for TMB walkers. Dormitories and private rooms, dinner and breakfast. Warm atmosphere, garden with views of the peaks.

Book ahead for July and August. Accommodation in La Fouly is limited. Reserve at least a week in advance during high season.

Alternatives:

• Gîte de La Fouly: simple lodging, well positioned
• Camping des Glaciers: for self-sufficient walkers, at the edge of the village
• Maya-Joie: B&B rooms at Swiss prices but with real comfort

Practical Tips for TMB Stage 6

Water and Supplies

Water is available at Refuge Bonatti (start), Refuge Elena, and La Fouly. Between Refuge Elena and La Peule (about 2 hours), there is no reliable water source. Bring a litre filled at Refuge Elena before heading up the col. The La Peule chalet sometimes has supplies, but this is not guaranteed every day.

Weather and Timing

The Grand Col Ferret is exposed to wind and sudden weather changes. Setting off from Refuge Bonatti early (before 7:30 AM) lets you cross the col by late morning, ahead of the afternoon thunderstorms that are common in summer. In thick fog, waymarking remains decent but progress slows: the col is wide and the path less obvious than in the wooded stretches.

The last slopes below the col can hold snow until mid-July. Crampons are not needed, but poles help keep you steady on softened snow.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 6

How long does it take to walk from Refuge Bonatti to La Fouly?

Allow 6h30 to 7h30 of actual walking. The Swiss descent (about 3 hours) takes longer than the map might suggest, because the trail winds extensively through the pastures. With stops, allow a full day of 8 to 9 hours.

Is the Grand Col Ferret dangerous?

Not in normal summer conditions. The path is well waymarked, with no technical passage or exposed ground. The only real challenge is the length of the stage and the cumulative downhill. Early in the season (before mid-July), snowfields may cover the final Italian slopes, calling for a bit of care but remaining perfectly manageable for any experienced walker. On rainy days, the trail gets muddy and slippery.

Can you shorten this stage?

Yes, in two ways. At the start: sleeping at Refuge Elena instead of Bonatti saves about 2 hours in the morning. At the finish: from the village of Ferret (1,700 m), a bus goes down to La Fouly in 10 minutes (7 departures daily). Some 7-day itineraries combine this stage with the start of the next one (La Fouly to Champex).

Is there a variant via the Petit Col Ferret?

The Petit Col Ferret (2,490 m) is a lesser-known option that passes closer to Mont Dolent. The route is wilder, with gullied slopes and loose rock. It is seldom taken by TMB walkers because the Grand Col Ferret is more direct and has a comparable view. Best for those seeking solitude who are happy on rougher terrain.

What Comes Next on the TMB

La Fouly opens the Swiss section of the circuit. The next stage takes you to Champex-Lac on a shorter, gentler day, often thought of as the rest stage of the TMB. Champex-Lac, nicknamed "the little Swiss Canada," offers a lake, rowing boats, and an alpine botanical garden: a lovely contrast after the high cols.

To see where this stage fits in the full circuit, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc guide covers all 11 stages, variants, and logistics. If you would like to walk the TMB in comfort with selected accommodation and a dedicated mountain guide, our TMB in 7 days with Altimood brings together the best of the circuit in one week.

You have just come from Stage 5, Courmayeur to Refuge Bonatti: the panorama of the Grandes Jorasses is still fresh in the mind. Ahead lies French-speaking Switzerland and its alpine cheeses.

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