TMB Stage 4: Descent Through Val Veni, from Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur

If you've made it to the Rifugio Elisabetta, you've already done the hard part of the previous day. Now, the morning light creeps slowly across the south face of Mont Blanc, and Lac Combal below is perfectly still. What stretches ahead on Stage 4 of the Tour du Mont-Blanc is a long, mostly downhill walk through the Val Veni, a corridor of glacier, pasture and raw mountain drama that alpinists have always called "the Himalayan face of Mont Blanc."

This isn't a col day. The drama on Stage 4 plays out sideways: you walk alongside the massif at its base, not over it. Italy's longest glacier, the Miage, trails ten kilometres of rocky debris just above the path. The Brenva face towers to the north-east. And by the end of the valley, Courmayeur is waiting, coffee, sun, a proper shower, and that easy Italian hospitality that feels like a gift after three days on the hills.

We, the mountain guides Altimood, have a soft spot for this stage. It's not the most dramatic on the circuit, but it's one of the most complete: geology, history, scenery, and a warm welcome at the end. For Irish hillwalkers making the holiday of a lifetime, flying into Geneva and crossing into the Aosta Valley, that arrival in Courmayeur tends to feel genuinely memorable, the moment the TMB stops being an adventure on a map and becomes a lived experience.

This guide covers everything from the Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur: the terrain figures, the Mont Favre variant, the Miage glacier's strange geology, the history of the Brenva face, accommodation options, and what to do once you've arrived.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 14.9 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 471 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 1370 m

Stage 4 at a Glance

Note on stage divisions: in 7-day itineraries, this stage is often merged with the end of Stage 3, heading directly from Col de la Seigne to Courmayeur. The route described here starts from the Rifugio Elisabetta, the most common breakdown in the classic 11-stage version. Some guidebooks divide this section further by adding an overnight at Maison-Vieille (Col Chécrouit), creating a shorter day.

Lac Combal and the Start of Val Veni

The trail leaves the Rifugio Elisabetta and drops towards Lac Combal, a lake the Miage glacier's alluvial deposits fill in a little more each year. On a calm morning, the still surface catches the south face of Mont Blanc in a fleeting, imperfect reflection. The moment doesn't last long before the sun warms the valley and a breeze gets going.

The lake sits in the bottom of a glacial hollow edged with wetlands. It's a fragile environment: the peat bogs shelter rare plant species, and the trail follows the right bank to protect the most sensitive zones. There's about fifteen minutes of flat walking here, something of a novelty on the TMB.

The Miage Glacier: Italy's Longest Glacier

Nothing about the Miage glacier looks like a glacier at first glance. No glistening seracs, no gaping crevasses: this ten-kilometre river of ice is buried entirely under rocky debris, giving it the look of a vast, slowly creeping boulder field. It is the longest glacier on the Italian face of Mont Blanc and one of the largest debris-covered glaciers in the Alps.

That rocky blanket works in the glacier's favour, at least in one respect: it insulates the ice from solar radiation and slows melting down considerably, which is why the Miage sits lower than its "clean" neighbours. But the ice is very much there, under the stones, and it makes itself known. Surface collapses create temporary lakes on the glacier, and sudden floods have left their mark on Val Veni's history more than once.

From the TMB trail, you walk the glacier's left bank without ever setting foot on it. Information panels along the way explain the glacial dynamics. For walkers curious to get closer, an unmarked lateral path climbs the moraine and opens up a view across the glacier's chaotic surface, go carefully, as there are no waymarks.

The Allée Blanche: Walking Beneath the South Face

The Val Veni goes by another name on older maps: the Allée Blanche. This fifteen-kilometre glacial corridor runs east to west, connecting Col de la Seigne to Courmayeur. It has been one of the Alps' main transit routes since antiquity, the Romans used it to reach Gaul via the Col du Petit Saint-Bernard, a few kilometres to the south.

Walking through the Allée Blanche, the south face of Mont Blanc towers over you for the full length of the corridor. The contrast with the north side, the face you see from Chamonix, is quietly shocking: darker, more vertical, wilder. In 1774, the scientist Horace-Bénédict de Saussure explored this face with guide Jean-Laurent Jordaney and was the first to describe Val Veni's moraines scientifically, contributing to the coining of the word "moraine" in its modern geological sense.

The Brenva Face

Look north-east and the Brenva face fills the horizon. Standing 1,500 metres tall, it is a mixture of rock, ice and hanging seracs, one of the great Alpine walls. It was first climbed in 1865 by Adolphus Warburton Moore, Frank Walker, Horace Walker and their guide Jakob Anderegg, a feat that opened the era of serious ice climbing in the Alps.

The Brenva is also known for its collapses. In January 1997, an entire section of the face gave way, sending two million cubic metres of rock and ice into Val Veni. The shockwave crossed the valley and struck the opposite slope. Tragically, two skiers below lost their lives, a sobering reminder that this side of Mont Blanc remains an unstable and formidable mountain. From the trail, the scar from that collapse is still visible in dry conditions.

The Descent to Col Chécrouit and Maison-Vieille

After the flat section at Combal, the trail descends gradually into the valley. The landscape changes: moraines give way to pastures, larches begin to appear, and you start to hear cowbells. Val Veni is an active summer alpage, and herds of Valdostan cattle move up here each season.

The classic TMB route climbs to Col Chécrouit (1,956 m) along a balcony path with broad views down the valley and over the Miage glacier. It's a pleasant stretch, steady gradient, heads-up walking.

Refuge de Maison-Vieille (1,956 m)

At Col Chécrouit, the Refuge de Maison-Vieille makes a fine resupply stop. The terrace faces Mont Blanc directly and serves what is widely regarded as one of the best Italian coffees on the TMB. Walkers who want to split the stage can sleep here; those pushing on to Courmayeur still have about 700 metres of descent ahead.

Mont Favre Variant (2,433 m)

For those who want to add some height and earn a wider view, the Mont Favre variant leaves the main trail after Lac Combal and climbs to the rounded summit of Mont Favre (2,433 m). The panorama from the top takes in the Brenva face, the full Miage glacier, and the entire Italian chain of the Mont Blanc massif. The descent rejoins the classic route at Col Chécrouit.

The variant adds roughly two hours and 400 metres of extra elevation gain. It's well worth it in clear weather, in mist or cloud, the Mont Favre summit adds effort without reward, and the valley trail is beautiful enough. When conditions are good and we're guiding the TMB, this is the variant we always take: the view from the top onto the Brenva face is one of the Italian side's genuinely special moments.

The Descent into Courmayeur

From Col Chécrouit, the path down to Courmayeur winds through larches on a well-graded forest track. The gradient is steady, with no technical ground, though your knees will feel it: 700 metres of descent over roughly five kilometres. Break out the trekking poles if they're not already in use.

The trail emerges at the first chalets of Dolonne, a neighbourhood of Courmayeur, before crossing the Doire Baltée and entering the town centre. The shift from mountain path to pedestrian street is almost comically abrupt, a few steps, and you're surrounded by boutiques, gelato shops, and café terraces.

Courmayeur (1,224 m): The Halfway Mark of the TMB

Courmayeur is not just a stage village, it's a full mountain town with real character. A historic resort in the Aosta Valley, it hosted Mont Blanc's earliest explorers, the golden-age alpinists, and has welcomed skiers and hillwalkers for generations. The name likely comes from the Latin curia major, the great court, in reference to its medieval administrative role.

For the TMB hillwalker, Courmayeur is a genuine turning point. It's the first real town since Les Houches (or Les Contamines, depending on your definition). There's an ATM, a pharmacy, a launderette, a supermarket, and restaurants where polenta costs less than a soft drink in a mountain hut.

It's also the right moment to check your gear, sort any blisters, and take a long hot shower. Of all the stops on the TMB, Courmayeur is the one where an unexpected rest day is most easily justified when the schedule allows.

The Skyway Monte Bianco

From Courmayeur, the Skyway Monte Bianco cable car climbs in two sections to the Pointe Helbronner (3,466 m). The rotating cabin delivers a 360-degree view of the Mont Blanc massif, the Grandes Jorasses, the Matterhorn and the Grand Paradis. At the top, a panoramic terrace and an ice cave let you touch the high-mountain world without a rope or crampons.

It's a half-day detour unrelated to hiking, but it gives an aerial perspective on the massif you're circling that's genuinely hard to match any other way. The ticket (around €50 return) and summer crowds are the main deterrents. Our advice: get there early in the morning, well before the tour buses.

Accommodation for Stage 4

In Courmayeur

Courmayeur offers a wide range of accommodation, from camping to four-star hotels. The most practical options for TMB walkers:

• Central hotels: several establishments welcome TMB hillwalkers, with luggage storage and laundry facilities. Expect €80–150 per night for a double room in high season. Advance booking is strongly advisable for July and August.
• Hostel / gîte: the Gîte Le Randonneur du Mont Blanc, in Val Veni, is a more budget-friendly option.
• Camping: Camping Val Veni sits at the edge of Courmayeur towards Val Veni, reachable on foot from the trail.

Along the Route

• Refuge de Maison-Vieille (1,956 m, Col Chécrouit): for those who want to divide the stage. Spectacular views, classic Italian refuge atmosphere.

Practical Tips for TMB Stage 4

Water on the Route

Water is available at the start (Rifugio Elisabetta) and at the Refuge de Maison-Vieille. Between the two, sources are scarce in midsummer. Carry 1.5 to 2 litres from the start. In Courmayeur, public fountains provide fresh drinking water around the town.

Weather and Conditions

This stage is largely downhill on a well-marked path. The main risk is heat: Val Veni, oriented east-west and enclosed by high ridges, can get airless and oppressive in midsummer. Setting off early from the Rifugio Elisabetta lets you cover the upper section in the cool of the morning. Should a storm develop, the Refuge de Maison-Vieille offers shelter at the halfway point.

Supplies

The last resupply before Courmayeur is the Refuge de Maison-Vieille. In Courmayeur, several supermarkets and shops let you stock up for the stages ahead on the Italian side. This is a good moment to pick up some Fontina cheese and Valdostan charcuterie for the trail.

Logistics and Access

Courmayeur is served by regular bus services from Aosta and the Mont Blanc Tunnel. If you need to leave the TMB or require medical attention, the nearest hospital is in Aosta (about 45 minutes by bus). Seasonal shuttles run up Val Veni to Lac Combal in summer, a useful option if injury or tiredness forces an early exit.

Frequently Asked Questions, TMB Stage 4

How long does it take to walk from Rifugio Elisabetta to Courmayeur?

Allow 5h30 to 7h of walking, depending on your pace and stops. The stage is predominantly downhill (1,450 m of descent versus 480 m of gain), which is harder on the knees than on the lungs. Add roughly two hours for the Mont Favre variant.

Is the Mont Favre variant worth the extra effort?

In clear weather, absolutely. The summit of Mont Favre (2,433 m) gives one of the finest views of the Brenva face and the Italian side of Mont Blanc. In mist or poor visibility, stick with the classic valley trail, it's already a lovely walk and you'll be glad of the saved energy on the stages ahead.

Can I take a bus through Val Veni to shorten the stage?

Yes. Seasonal shuttle buses serve Val Veni between Courmayeur and Lac Combal in summer. Schedules vary from year to year. It's a perfectly legitimate option if you're fatigued, dealing with an injury, or want to leave time for exploring Courmayeur. Check with the Courmayeur tourist office or the Rifugio Elisabetta for current timetables.

What should I do in Courmayeur when I arrive?

Courmayeur is worth more than just a night's sleep. If your itinerary allows, a rest day at the midway point of the TMB is genuinely worthwhile. Beyond rest: the Skyway Monte Bianco (Pointe Helbronner, 3,466 m), the Pré-Saint-Didier thermal baths (5 km away, reachable by bus), a wander through the old town's cobbled lanes, or simply a terrace and a bowl of polenta concia, which is rather good here.

Is the Skyway Monte Bianco worth doing during the TMB?

It's a different experience entirely from hillwalking. Going up to 3,466 m by cable car gives you an aerial perspective on the massif you're walking around that's hard to get any other way. The panorama takes in Mont Blanc, the Grandes Jorasses, the distant Matterhorn, and the Grand Paradis. Budget half a day and around €50. If you have one clear day in Courmayeur, it's worth the detour.

What if the hotels in Courmayeur are all booked up?

Alternatives include Camping Val Veni (at the edge of town), the Refuge de Maison-Vieille at Col Chécrouit (above, at 1,956 m), or continuing onwards to the Rifugio Bertone on the Stage 5 trail. In high season, booking at least a month in advance is sensible for Courmayeur.

What's Next on the TMB

Courmayeur opens the door to the Italian Val Ferret. The next stage climbs towards the Rifugio Bonatti, one of the best-positioned refuges on the whole circuit, facing the Grandes Jorasses and the Dent du Géant. The variant along the Mont de la Saxe ridge is one of the most celebrated viewpoints in the Alps.

To see how this stage fits into the full route, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc guide covers all 11 stages, variants, the best time to go, and full logistics. If you'd like to do the TMB with hand-picked accommodation and a dedicated guide, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood brings the best of the circuit into a single, well-paced week.

If you've come from Stage 3 from Les Chapieux, you already know the south face from the col. This stage brings you right down to its foot.

Further Reading