TMB Stage 11: Refuge de la Flégère to Les Houches via Le Brévent

Le Brévent (2,525 m) is not the highest summit on the Tour du Mont-Blanc. It is not the wildest, nor the most secluded. Yet it is the one place from which the entire journey you have just completed makes visual sense. The full massif spreads out across the valley, from the Aiguilles de Chamonix to the Dôme du Goûter, with Mont-Blanc planted firmly in the centre. After ten days of walking around this mountain, you are looking straight at it, a mere 8 km as the crow flies.

Mountain hiking guides, we think of this final stage as the last proper climb of the circuit. The ascent is unambiguous and steep, the panorama earns every metre of effort, and the descent to Les Houches (1,500 m of height loss, the longest on the TMB) tests your knees one last time. In this article, we describe the complete route, the passage by Refuge de Bellachat, options for trimming the day, and a few tales about the earliest travellers who ventured into Chamonix.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 15.5 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 659 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 1540 m

Stage 11 at a Glance

The defining moment: standing on the summit of Le Brévent. Mont-Blanc is directly opposite, 8 km away as the crow flies. Below, the Chamonix valley forms a green ribbon 1,500 m further down. It was from this spot that Dr. Michel-Gabriel Paccard, in the 18th century, studied Mont-Blanc through a telescope to prepare the route for the first ascent.

From La Flégère to Planpraz: Continuing the Grand Balcon Sud

You set off from the Refuge de la Flégère (1,877 m) heading south-west, in the opposite direction from the trail you followed the day before from Trè-le-Champ. The path traverses the Charlanon alpage on the hillside, with the Mont-Blanc massif in permanent view to your left. You pass beneath the slopes of l'Index (2,595 m), then the route winds around several hollows, including the Combe de la Parsa, alternating between larch woodland, rock slabs, and open pasture.

About 1h30 into the walk, you arrive at Planpraz (2,000 m), the intermediate station of the Le Brévent cable car. There is a small refreshment stand and toilets. This is a decision point: you can take the cable car down to Chamonix (if the weather has turned or energy is running low), or press on walking toward Le Brévent's summit.

You will notice a marked increase in foot traffic here, as day walkers from Chamonix ride the cable car up. After the relative peace of the Swiss Val Ferret or the pastures of Alp Bovine, the contrast is quite something.

Le Brévent (2,525 m)

The climb from Planpraz to Le Brévent takes roughly 1h15. The path passes the Col du Brévent (2,368 m), marked by a cairn, then crosses a rocky spur equipped with two metal ladders (8 and 9 rungs) before reaching the summit (2,525 m). The passage is exposed but well secured. In rain or after a thunderstorm, the rungs and the surrounding rock become slippery: take extra care, and consider the cable car as an alternative. You can also ride the upper section of the cable car directly to the summit from Planpraz.

At the top, the view is a full 360°. To the east, the entire Mont-Blanc chain unfolds: the Aiguille du Midi (3,842 m), Mont-Blanc du Tacul (4,248 m), Mont Maudit (4,465 m), Mont-Blanc (4,809 m), Dôme du Goûter (4,304 m), and Aiguille de Bionnassay (4,052 m). Below, Chamonix looks tiny. To the west, you see the Aiguilles Rouges massif, Lac Blanc (where some walkers passed the previous day), and on a very clear day, the Jura far off.

It was from Le Brévent that Dr. Michel-Gabriel Paccard scrutinised Mont-Blanc to identify a route to the top. On 8 August 1786, alongside Jacques Balmat, he made the first ascent. Chamonix was changed utterly. The catalyst had been Genevan naturalist Horace-Bénédict de Saussure, who had been observing the mountain since 1760 and promised a reward for anyone who could find a way up. Balmat claimed the glory for many years. It was not until historian T. Graham Brown carried out his research in the 20th century that Paccard was restored as the first true ascensionist.

The Descent to Bellachat (2,152 m)

From the summit of Le Brévent, the path descends first across rocky ground, then into alpine pasture. In 1h to 1h15, you arrive at the Refuge de Bellachat (2,152 m), perched on a grassy shelf with a commanding view over the Chamonix valley and the Glacier des Bossons directly across.

Refuge de Bellachat is the final place to pause before the long descent. The guardian serves simple, hearty food. It is a fine spot for lunch, or for spending one last night at altitude if you want to break the stage in two.

The Big Descent: Bellachat to Les Houches

This is the most demanding section of the day. From Bellachat (2,152 m) to Les Houches (977 m), about 1,200 m of descent remain over 7 km. Walking poles are essential here.

The trail leaves the refuge across a steep grassy slope, drops 300 m in tight zigzags, then enters the Réserve naturelle de Carlaveyron around 1,800 m. The reserve was created in 1991 to protect 598 hectares of old-growth forest and wetlands. Its existence was by no means guaranteed: a plan to extend ski infrastructure towards the Montagne de Carlaveyron had been put forward, before being abandoned in favour of the reserve.

The descent continues through forest (larches, then spruce) to a junction for the Parc animalier de Merlet (1,500 m), where ibex, chamois, and marmots roam in semi-freedom with Mont-Blanc as a backdrop. The park is visible from the trail; a visit adds about 1h to your day. Past Merlet, the path meets a wider forest track. You reach the P3 car park (1,370 m), the first road access since the refuge.

The final 400 m of descent go through forest to the platform of the Christ-Roi statue (1,200 m), erected in 1934 at the initiative of Abbé Claude-Marie Delassiat, parish priest of Les Houches. The Arve valley opens out below. The last stretch passes through the hamlet of Le Coupeau before arriving at Les Houches station (980 m). The TMB is finished.

When Chamonix Was "Discovered"

Arriving in Les Houches, you are walking ground that earlier visitors opened up. In June 1741, two young English aristocrats, William Windham and Richard Pococke, left Geneva with an armed escort to explore the Chamonix valley. At the time, it was a dead end at the bottom of a mule track, virtually unknown beyond the local area. Windham described the "Mer de Glace" (he coined the name) and the Chamonix aiguilles in a letter that caused a stir in London. A few decades on, the writer and canon Marc-Théodore Bourrit, based in Geneva, published between 1773 and 1801 several editions of descriptions of the Chamonix glaciers, with engravings that circulated widely in European scientific and literary circles. Alpine tourism had taken root, and Chamonix would become its capital.

Variant: the Aiguillettes du Brévent and Les Houches

For those who do not want the TMB to end too soon, a lesser-known variant stretches the final day. From Refuge de Bellachat, instead of descending directly to Les Houches, the trail follows the ridge westward over the Aiguillette du Brévent (2,310 m) and the Pointe de Lapaz (2,313 m), then continues to the Aiguillette des Houches before going down via the Chalets de Chailloux (1,923 m) and Plan de la Cry (1,440 m). Allow 5 to 6h from Bellachat, with +200 m and -1,400 m. It is a ridge walk with unbroken views of the Mont-Blanc chain, well clear of the busy paths. It reaches Les Houches from the western side, on a gentler gradient than the direct descent.

Options for Shortening the Stage

Stage 11 is long (6h30 to 8h) and the descent is tough on the body. Several options let you adjust:

• La Flégère cable car: descend from La Flégère to Les Praz-de-Chamonix, then take the bus to Les Houches (removes the entire stage, useful in poor weather).
• Le Brévent cable car: ride up to Planpraz or Le Brévent, then walk down to Bellachat and Les Houches (saves 600 m of ascent).
• Night at Bellachat: split the stage in two. La Flégère to Bellachat (3-4h), then Bellachat to Les Houches the next morning (2h30-3h).

Accommodation in Les Houches and Nearby

• Gîtes and hotels in Les Houches (977 m): the village offers a good range of places to stay. After 11 stages, a proper bed and a long shower feel like luxury.
• Refuge de Bellachat (2,152 m): for those wanting to split the stage or catch one last sunset at altitude. Booking recommended (tel: 04 50 53 43 23).
• Chamonix: 8 km from Les Houches, accessible by bus or train (Mont-Blanc Express). A broader selection of accommodation and dining.

Practical Advice

Water and Supplies

Water is available at Refuge de la Flégère at the start, at the Planpraz kiosk, at Refuge de Bellachat, and in Les Houches at the finish. The descent from Bellachat to Les Houches is long with no water source: bring at least 1.5 litres from Bellachat in summer.

Weather and Timing

The summit of Le Brévent is exposed to wind and thunderstorms. If the weather looks uncertain, try to reach the summit early (summer storms typically build in early afternoon). The descent faces south-west: in high summer, heat in the forest can be stifling in the afternoon. Leaving La Flégère before 7:30 is strongly advised.

Difficulty

The climb to Le Brévent is sustained but technically uncomplicated. The descent is the true challenge: 1,860 m of height loss places serious demands on your quadriceps and joints. Walking poles are essential. If your knees are suffering, consider the cable car for at least part of the way down.

Getting Back to Your Starting Point

From Les Houches station, the Mont-Blanc Express (train) connects to Chamonix (10 min) and Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet (15 min), where TGV services run to Paris, Lyon, and Geneva. The Tramway du Mont-Blanc, departing from Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet and climbing to the Nid d'Aigle, also stops at the Col de Voza station (the one you passed on Stage 1). Local buses fill in the gaps. If your car is parked in Les Houches, the loop is complete. If you left it in Chamonix or Saint-Gervais, the train brings you back in minutes.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 11

Can I skip the climb to Le Brévent?

Yes, by taking the cable car from Planpraz. But the summit of Le Brévent is widely regarded as the best viewpoint on the TMB. Missing it means finishing the trek without the summit panorama. If your legs are up to it, walk.

Is the 1,860 m descent really that demanding?

It is the longest descent on the TMB. On your knees and joints, it is hard going, especially after ten days of walking. Walking poles, a steady pace, and regular breaks make it manageable. The forest offers shade, which is a help in summer.

Can you combine Stages 10 and 11?

It is possible for very fit walkers. Linking Trè-le-Champ, La Flégère, Le Brévent, and Les Houches totals roughly 23 km with 1,750 m of ascent and 2,200 m of descent. Some seven-day itineraries include it. In our TMB in 7 days, we plan this section with accumulated fatigue taken into account.

What to do after the TMB?

Les Houches and Chamonix have everything for recovery: restaurants, brasseries, outdoor shops, and the Saint-Gervais thermal baths are 20 minutes by train. If you are travelling home by public transport, Saint-Gervais-Le-Fayet station connects to the TGV network and Geneva airport.

The Loop Is Complete

The Tour du Mont-Blanc ends in Les Houches, where it began. You set down the pack, look up at the mountain one final time, and know the full circle is walked. Three countries, eleven stages, 170 km, roughly ten passes.

Stage 1 of the TMB, the one that took you away from Les Houches eleven days back (or seven, or five), is the beginning of another circuit if the pull is strong enough. To see this final stage in the context of the whole route, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc article covers all 11 stages, the variants, and the full logistics. And if you would like to walk the TMB with a guide who knows every col, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood brings the best of the circuit into a single week.

You have just come from Stage 10, Trè-le-Champ to Refuge de la Flégère along the Grand Balcon Sud.

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