TMB Stage 10: 7 km on the Grand Balcon Sud, the Drus right in front of you

Seven kilometres. That's the sum total of Stage 10 on the Tour du Mont-Blanc - the shortest stage of the entire loop. And yet, ask any hiker to name their standout moment and this is the one that keeps coming up. The Grand Balcon Sud lays out a balcony trail facing the north side of the massif, with the Aiguille Verte (4,122 m), the Drus, the Mer de Glace, and Mont-Blanc as a backdrop that simply never lets up. You'll scramble up eleven metal ladders, walk through the Reserve naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges, and - if you fancy the detour - visit Lac Blanc, where the Alps produce their most photographed reflection.

Mountain hiking guides, we've been along this balcony in every class of weather going. When the sky is clear, it's a line-up of summits that genuinely takes your breath away. In fog, it's an altogether different thing - an intimate passage through rhododendrons and larches, with glaciers appearing suddenly through gaps in the cloud. This article takes you through the full route, the options, where to stay, and a handful of stories the trail keeps to itself.

The Route: Profile, Map and GPX

• Distance :↔ 6.2 km
• Dénivelé positif :↗ 692 m
• Dénivelé négatif :↘ 247 m

Stage 10 at a Glance

The moment that stays with you: eleven metal ladders, then a chimney with footholds and an exposed ledge, and then you're standing at Tete-aux-Vents (2,132 m) with the whole Mont-Blanc massif spread out before you. A 7 km balcony path between sky and glaciers.

The Climb: Tre-le-Champ to Tete-aux-Vents

You set off from Tre-le-Champ (1,400 m) on a forest path that gains height quickly. After about an hour of steady climbing through the larch trees, you reach the ladder section. Eleven metal ladders one after the other take you up a rock barrier, followed by a chimney with footholds and an exposed traverse. It's airy but well-secured, and there's no climbing technique needed. Your hands are just for steadying yourself, nothing more.

At the top, the big cairn at Tete-aux-Vents (2,132 m) marks the highest point of the stage. This is the fork in the road: left brings you up towards Lac Blanc; straight ahead takes you along the Grand Balcon Sud to La Flegere.

The Grand Balcon Sud: Walking in Front of Giants

From Tete-aux-Vents, the trail descends gently on a traverse. To your left, the panorama opens up from east to west like a living relief map: the Aiguille du Tour (3,544 m), the Aiguille du Chardonnet (3,824 m), the Aiguille d'Argentiere (3,900 m), then the Aiguille Verte (4,122 m) and the Drus (3,754 m) soaring above the Mer de Glace. After them come the Grandes Jorasses (4,208 m), the Aiguilles de Chamonix, and the "Trois Monts": Mont-Blanc du Tacul (4,248 m), Mont Maudit (4,465 m), Mont-Blanc (4,809 m).

You're looking at the entire massif in one sweep. There aren't many trails in the Alps that give you a panorama this complete, held for this long. The balcony carries on for several kilometres, passing the Chalet des Cheserys (1,998 m) before reaching the Refuge de la Flegere (1,877 m).

The Drus: A Pillar That No Longer Exists

Straight across the valley, on the opposite side, the Drus draw your eye. Their shape has changed. In 1997, a seismic collapse tore a section off the Petit Dru. More rockfalls came in 2003, 2005, and 2011. The famous Bonatti Pillar - where Walter Bonatti pulled off a solo six-day climb in 1955, one of the greatest feats in mountaineering history - is simply gone. The mountain took it back.

Back in 1741, the Englishmen William Windham and Richard Pococke were among the first foreign visitors to reach Chamonix. Windham wrote about the "glacieres of Chamouni" in an account that caused a stir in London's scientific and literary circles. He was already noting the Aiguille du Dru in his view from the Montenvers, though he got his east and west the wrong way round. Their visit sparked a craze that would turn a remote Alpine backwater into the world capital of mountaineering.

The Lac Blanc Detour

From Tete-aux-Vents, a path climbs to Lac Blanc (2,352 m) in about 45 minutes (+220 m of elevation gain). The milky colour comes from rock particles ground up by glacial abrasion. The first basin is 3.30 m deep, the second 9.50 m. This is the spot where the Aiguille Verte and the Drus give you their most famous reflection.

The Chamonix guide Armand Charlet made the Aiguille Verte his personal obsession: he climbed it over a hundred times by different routes. Standing at Lac Blanc, you begin to understand how a single mountain can get a hold of someone like that.

The Lac Blanc detour adds about 1h30 to your day, there and back from Tete-aux-Vents. If you'd rather stay the night, the Refuge du Lac Blanc (2,352 m) has dormitories and meals.

The Reserve naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges

All of Stage 10 passes through the Reserve naturelle des Aiguilles Rouges, created on 30 April 1971 at Chamonix. Spread across 3,270 hectares, it protects one of the richest alpine ecosystems in the area. The name "Aiguilles Rouges" probably comes from the reddish tint of the rock making up the massif. Entry is free. There's a visitor centre at the Col des Montets with exhibitions on the local wildlife and plants.

The founding idea behind the reserve fitted in a single line: "We shall protect nature to protect humankind!" Fifty years on, the Grand Balcon Sud trail is the proof: chamois, ibex, and marmots are regularly seen on the surrounding slopes.

Accommodation at La Flegere and Nearby

• Refuge de la Flegere (1,877 m): the classic stop at the end of the stage. Dormitories, half-board, terrace looking straight at Mont-Blanc. Booking is essential in summer (tel: 04 50 55 85 88).
• Refuge du Lac Blanc (2,352 m): for those who'd like to sleep by the lake and see the sun come up over the Drus (tel: 07 67 56 74 14). You'll need to climb back up from Tete-aux-Vents.
• Hotels in Les Praz-de-Chamonix: reachable by cable car from La Flegere (15 min). More comfort, more choice for eating out.

Book by March for July-August, particularly at the Refuge du Lac Blanc which has limited space.

Practical Tips

Water and Supplies

Water is available at the start in Tre-le-Champ (Auberge La Boerne), at the Refuge du Lac Blanc if you make the detour, and at the Refuge de la Flegere on arrival. A few streams flow early in the season, but they may run dry by August. Carry 1 to 1.5 litres. There are no shops on the trail.

Weather and Timing

The stage is short (3-4h without Lac Blanc), so there's no great rush in the morning. The slope faces west: morning light hits the Mont-Blanc massif opposite, giving you the best conditions for photographs. The trail is sun-exposed in the afternoon during summer. The ladder section is best avoided in rain (slippery rock).

Difficulty

The eleven ladders and the exposed traverse are the only parts requiring a head for heights. Hikers who aren't comfortable with exposure can take a lower variant that avoids the rock barrier (marked trail from Tre-le-Champ via the Col des Montets to La Flegere, about an hour longer). Everything else is standard hiking trail, well-waymarked.

Frequently Asked Questions About TMB Stage 10

Are the ladders dangerous?

Not at all. The ladders are metal, bolted into rock, and well-maintained. They're vertical or very steep, and you'll want your hands for grip. The chimney that follows has built-in footholds. The exposed traverse is the most impressive bit, but the path is wide enough. In dry conditions, it's good fun. In rain, the rock can get slippery: take extra care, or use the lower route.

Can you combine Stage 10 with Stage 9?

You can, but it's a big ask. Stringing together Trient, Tre-le-Champ, and the Refuge de la Flegere comes to roughly 20 km and 1,900 m of elevation gain. Some 7-day schedules manage it. In our TMB in 7 days, we approach this stretch differently to keep legs fresh.

Should you head up to Lac Blanc or go straight to La Flegere?

If the weather's good and your legs are willing, the Lac Blanc detour is worth every bit of the extra effort. The reflection of Mont-Blanc in the lake is one of the most iconic sights in the Alps. Allow about 1h30 more (round trip from Tete-aux-Vents). If the cloud's down over the peaks, the lake loses its main appeal.

What Comes Next on the TMB

From the Refuge de la Flegere, the following stage brings you to Le Brevent (2,525 m), often reckoned the finest viewpoint on the TMB, before a long 1,500 m descent to Les Houches. That's the grand finale - the loop closes.

You've just come from Stage 9, Trient to Tre-le-Champ via the Col de Balme: the return to France is behind you. To see how this stage fits into the full circuit, the complete Tour du Mont-Blanc guide covers all 11 stages, variants, and logistics. If you'd like to walk the TMB in comfort with hand-picked accommodation and a dedicated guide, the TMB in 7 days with Altimood brings together the best of the route in a single week.

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